The Granddaddy- Part 4

“The whole value of solitude depends upon one's self; it may be a sanctuary or a prison, a haven of repose or a place of punishment, a heaven or a hell, as we ourselves make it”
-John Lubbock

Monday, Day 3- 10 miles, shore of Colorado River

I woke up before first light and quickly hiked up to the Nankoweap Granaries. I left all of my gear at my beachside camp to pack up later and just took myself and my camera. The ruins are really quite amazing for many reasons:

1. They are still intact and standing after hundreds of years.
2. The view is just spectacular
3. To think that someone actually lived down hear: It is so beautiful and peaceful.
4. Remote. It is really difficult to get to: 14 strenuous miles and 6000 vertical feet hiking one way or a multi-day rafting trip.

After hiking the ruins, I began the hike. I was feeling pretty rested and I expected this day to be relatively relaxed. On paper, the route appeared to be 9 river miles and flat. However, there is no trail along the shore of the Colorado River so the route is a bushwhack. There are some deer trails to follow but for the most part it is a combination of beach/sandy walking, scrambling over rocks, and pressing through thick brush. It beat me up badly.

I took time mid day to go swimming/shower in the Colorado even though it was chilly outside. I had to. I wasn’t about to spend a week in the Grand Canyon and not swim in the Mighty Colorado River. The water was absolutely freezing. My heart almost stopped and breathing became erratic as soon as I jumped in. I was told later that the water temperature is 48 degrees at Lees Ferry and increases temperature 1 degree every 20 miles. I was at mile 60 so the water temperature is approximately 51 degrees.

I finally made it into my camp at around 3:30 after the most difficult 9 or 10 miles of my life. I was discouraged. I thought it would be easy. I was wrong.

As I lay in bed that evening under a starry evening and a bright moon, I thought about life outside of the canyon for the first time since starting the journey 3 days before. I wasn’t thinking about hot showers, steak dinners, a cozy bed, or any other creature comfort, instead I thought about loved ones and questioned the purpose of the trip. I wrote in my journal, “The trip couldn’t have ended after day two and I would have already had my adventure fix. To think that I covered more ground, saw more of this wonderful canyon in two days than most people will ever see.”  I contemplated options for shortening the trip so I could get back sooner. I was tired, scraped up, and lonely. I was at a low point in the trip.

Me looking down river from the Nankoweap Ruins

Bushwacking it along the Colorado River

ICE- Taking a dip in the freezing cold water mid day

Tuesday, Day 4- Wait for boat, no miles

Video taken from my island retreat.  I stayed here for 45 hours.

I slept in as late as I could today…8am. I knew I would be waiting for until about noon for a boat. I slowly peeled myself out of bed into the chilly, windy morning air and fired up the stove. I made some tea and ate some trail mix. I explored the surrounding area to warm up. And then I just hung out. My body needed a rest. It was good for me.

Why not swim? Too cold (51 deg), temps in the 40's, 30 mph winds, fast moving water, weak swimmer, alone, people die trying

Why not continue the bushwhack along River? Very Difficult hiking, had enough already, not on itinerary, not much to gain by doing this.

Why not turn around? And go where? 60 miles back to the only bridge across river

Why not build a raft? haha, actually thought about this, plenty of wood, nothing else to do, drew up plans, not that much rope, rapids about 100 yards down river, Rafters came just as I started gathering wood, Saved by the bell...Haha.

I really analyzed all options and the only choice, the best choice, was to wait for a boat. I was told by numerous reliable sources that at least one rafting party per day leaves Lees Ferry. I geuss this was the only day, the day that i needed to cross the river, that no rafters came through.

While eating dinner more doubts and questions stirred up in my mind. What am I doing out here? Why didn’t I plan this better? Why did I choose this Route. I just wanted to get across that stupid river and get moving. I was getting very anxious. I wanted to get home as soon as possible. But then I thought about it… What is at home? Pseudo obligations: bills, cleaning, oil changes, doctor/dentist/eye appointments, or re-apply for annual memberships. All this stuff that doesn’t directly add to my enjoyment in life but must be done because I have a job, car, and apartment. However, out there in the Canyon I was free from all of it. I was actually living. So for the rest of the trip I was in good spirits and savored every grand moment. This is my vacation, my time to get away. Why should I be anxious? I should enjoy this and relax. I am in the Grand Canyon. 

My camp for 2 nights.  I stacked some logs up to protect me from the wind and sand blasting at night.  There was sand everywhere.

The Granddaddy- Part 3

Point Imperial

Sunday, Day 2- 20 miles, Ken Patrick, Point Imperial, FR610, Nankoweap

I awoke this morning completely stiff from my lilttle rim to rim stroll I took the day prior.  27 miles + 10000 feet of vertical gain and loss + peak pack weight = a very hard first day.

The goods news, at the time, was that today’s route on paper looked to be a rather easy, downhill 20 mile day. It was straightforward for about 6 or 7 miles while hiking on level ground along the Ken Patrick Trail until I started down Nankoweap.

The Nankoweap Trail is classified as the hardest Rim to River trail. It has the largest vertical drop of any trail in the park (5600 ft). I thought it would be easy because I was going down hill but I was wrong.  It was difficult and slow going. However, the few who conquer this punishing route are rewarded with the best views I have seen in the canyon and a chance to explore the only intact granaries (ruins) in the Park. Also, I heard there was a sweet waterfall 6 miles upriver but I only found out after my trip.

I took my time coming down Nankoweap because the views were breathtaking and I was getting a little shaky from the heights. There are no places on the trail where you have to use rope or climb across but there are places where you are within one big misstep of tumbling 2000 feet down into the canyon. I think I was a little more nervous than I should have been due to the wide open nature of this route. It allows you to see the narrow bench which the trail follows and the corresponding 2000 foot drop below it.

Nankoweap turned out to be my favorite trail on this trip. With that being said, I was relieved to make it down to the bottom of the canyon safely and correctly. It was here at the bottom of the Canyon where I saw my first hiker and water since the North Kaibab Trail, some 25+ miles and 24 hours prior. The solo-hiker, Eric, hiked down for 1 night to see the ruins and check Nankoweap off his robust list of Grand Canyon hikes.

I made finally made it to my camp on the shore of the Colorado River just below the Nankoweap Granaries at around 5pm. I was just plain beat and started to develop a sharp pain in my left quadriceps. The 11000+ vertical feet of descending on rough trails with a full pack took its toll on my body.

This was to be my first of many splendid nights below the Rim, sleeping on the beach, 5000 feet below the rim, on the shore of the abnormally clear Colorado River, under a star filled sky. It was starting to get chilly but I relished the opportunity to enjoy this beach camping experience. I was instantly relieved when I stripped off my shoes, then my shirt and walked shirtless and barefoot on the cool sand. The red canyon walls glowed under the bright light of the waxing gibbous moon, so much so that I put a shirt over my head while sleeping to drown out the light. I spread out my sleeping setup and fired up the stove for some Instant Potatoes, trail mix, and m&m’s. I curled up in my bag looking up at the sky, so clear and star studded, so inspiring. After seeing 3 shooting stars pass by within 1 minute, the thought crossed my mind that I have 4 more days of this. NICE.

Sweet campsite on the N. Rim next to Nankoweap Trailhead

Life on the upper Nankoweap Trail-  It's a good life

The Nankoweap Trail follows that first bench (about 1/3 down from top of Pic).  Its a long tumble down to the bottom.

Life on the middle Nankoweap Trail- This section was fun. 

Good view from Nankoweap

Nankoweap Creek- First water in 31+ miles.

 

Colorado River- I'm back.  I made it down just in time before sunset.  I was beat and ready to settle down for the evening. 

The Granddaddy- Part 2

“There was a freshness and breeziness, too, and an exhilarating sense of emancipation from all sorts of cares and responsibilities, that almost made us feel that the years we had spent in the close, hot city, toiling and slaving, had been wasted and thrown away.”  -Mark Twain, Roughing It

Saturday, Day 1- 27 miles, South Kaibab, North Kaibab, Ken Patrick

I awoke at exactly 5:12am. I wanted desperately to stay in bed because I was very tired from a long work week and the scramble to tie up all the loose ends with packing and seemingly meaningless life obligations. I eventually peeled my self from beneath the covers, threw them in the back of the truck, and within minutes departed my campsite on a Forest Road outside of Tusyan (which is a great, free place to camp when visiting the Grand Canyon). I passed through the park entrance and arrived at the backcountry visitor center at 5:45 AM leaving me 15 minutes to pack before the Hiker Express Shuttle came. The Hiker Express Shuttle was jammed packed even at 6am. It was ridiculous and I was eager to be released from the crowd. As soon as the shuttle came to a stop at the South Kaibab Trailhead, I bolted down into the canyon.

There were tons of people on the South Kaibab and North Kaibab. I wasn’t upset; instead I talked to several people because I knew in the next 5-6 days I would see few. Most people were astonished with my trip and I could sense jealously, a disappointment of sorts. I could hear it in their voices: the eagerness to be free, to explore such a beautiful wonder, and to incorporate some risk and adventure into their lives. I received so many questions, excuses rather, such as: Are you are going alone? Do you have a Tent? What about the animals? What if you break an ankle? Water? Food? Cold? This? That? I asked one of the river runners that I met about the risk of rafting down the Colorado River for 3 weeks: “The most dangerous part of our trip is the drive here.” I tend to agree. In my limited life experience I have found that most accidents happen during typical day to day events like driving to the grocery store or walking down the street or sitting in class. You just never know. Anything can happen at any moment. Should I try to be “safe” and never do anything remotely dangerous or should I cherish the moments I have to do something I love? The soldiers who were killed a few weeks ago at Fort Hood were not doing anything out of the ordinary the day they were killed. Sadly, they will not have a chance to do the things they love ever again. They won’t be able to hug their spouses or children. They won’t be able to go on a run in the park. They won’t be able to play football with friends. They won’t be able to travel to Europe or New York City or the Grand Canyon. So I hope to cherish the things I can do today because, and I know its cliché, but they literally might not be there tomorrow. I don’t want to be the person who says, “You don’t realize what you had until it’s gone.” I want to enjoy what I have now and be thankful for it.  Lets go hiking now...

Bighorn Sheep on the South Kaibab

Heading UP-->Starting the North Kaibab Trail

If it isn't clear to you by now, Ribbon Falls was the Highlight of Day 1

Life on the Ken Patrick Trail- Wrapping up a long day numero uno

The Granddaddy- Part 1

"...a descent into the Canyon is essential for a proper estimate of its details, and one can never realize the enormity of certain valleys, till he has crawled like a maimed insect at their base and looked thence upward to the narrowed sky."
                                                                    -John Stoddard

Intro

7 days
113 miles
Epic Adventure into the Grand Canyon

Why did I choose the Grand Canyon for a vacation? Why not somewhere far away such as Europe or Mexico or anywhere outside the state you reside in? I feel that the Grand Canyon is so spectacular, so breathtaking that to not explore and deeply experience it while I live within 3 hours drive of it would be criminal. I think it is awesome that people from all over the world take their vacations to visit my backyard. I feel fortunate to live within three hours of such wonders. I must take advantage of living so close and experience everything I can while I can.

I submitted a permit request to hike the Grand Canyon way back in July. At the time, I wasn’t even sure if I would be able to do this hike because four months out is a long time to plan for on my time scale. What if I something comes up or I get sick or have a change of heart? Fortunately, the stars aligned and the trip came at a time when I wanted a break from work and craved some much needed excitement. So off I went. I got all the adventure and excitement I desired along with inspiration and refreshment.

ROUTE- Grand Canyon Eastern LOOP

South Kaibab
-Difficult
-6 miles
-Tons of People
-No water
-Very open, good views of canyon
-Fast descent

North Kaibab
-Difficult
-15 miles
-Tons of people
-Prevalent water fill ups
-Tighter, more intimate canyon than South Kaibab
-Enjoyable hike but difficult towards the top

Ken Patrick
-Easy
-10 miles
-Zero people
-No Water
-Mostly flat, easy walking through burnt forest
-Sweet rim walking from Cape Royal Road to Point Imperial

Point Imperial
-Easy
-2.4 miles
-Zero people
-No Water
-Essentially an extension of Ken Patrick to FR610

Nankoweap
-Difficult
-14 miles
-I saw one guy, Eric (I think), at the bottom hiking back out
-No water until Nankoweap Creek 12 miles down
-Absolutely stunning views on the way down
-Walking along cliffs edge was awesome and quickly overcame fear of heights
- I don’t know how they put a trail through here, I found myself stopping and saying, “There’s no way the trail goes this way, I must be off course.” I wasn’t off course.
-Most enjoyable trail I have done in the Canyon

Colorado River (Nankoweap to LCR)
-Difficult bushwhack along river
-10 miles
-Zero people
-Water in Colorado River (for drinking)
-This section beat me up badly…Difficult hiking/scrambling, cuts on legs and arms, and took longer than expected

Beamer
-Moderate
-9 miles
-Zero people
-Water in Colorado River to drink
-Relatively flat, not much vertical
-Awesome trail 400 feet above the river on cliffs edge
-2nd most enjoyable trail to Nankoweap

Escalante
-Difficult
-12 miles
-Zero people
-Water in Colorado
-Route descriptions on net scared me, but trail was easy to follow…Kinda
-I passed a turn off and ended up adding on 3 or 4 miles
-Very fun trail, especially 75 mile slot canyon

Tonto
-Moderate
-30 miles
-3 or 4 small groups, including a backcountry ranger
-Sparse water in springs and creeks (Grapevine, Cottonwood, New Hance)
-Relatively Flat, Easy, 1000 feet above river on Tonto platform
-Sweeping views of canyon, Windy trail
-I was ready to be done about 10 miles in on this trail

South Kaibab
-Cake Walk
-5 miles
-Trail felt like a Phoenix International Speedway
-So wide and smooth compared what I was on the past 5 days.
-Even though it was uphill, it felt easy
-Home Sweet HOME

Total Mileage ~113 miles

Equipment and Food

I decided not to buy any new equipment for this trip. I wanted to see what I needed and what I didn’t need to make it on a 7- day backpacking trip. I found that you really don’t need much to be comfortable. Next time I would pack even lighter and invest in lighter gear. I believe that the less weight you carry and the fewer things you bring, the more enjoyable the trip becomes. However, I don’t like the idea of obsessing and glorifying the gear instead of the adventure, natural beauty, and true solitude.

Weight: I never did weigh my gear before heading out but I did at the end of the trip. My finished pack weight (as I stepped off the trail) was about 18 pounds with water and what little food I had remaining. At full capacity with food, water, and fuel I bet I topped out at about 40 pounds at the start.

Weight of Pack as I stepped off the Trail (~18 pounds)

To wear: I brought the following: trail running shoes, thin synthetic socks, thick wool socks, running shorts, half tights, Sporthill running pants (best pants I’ve worn for running/athletics), Sythetic tee shirt, cotton t-shirt, underarmour tight lonsleeve, and a running long sleeve, oh and a trash bag in case it rained. At night I wore all clothing I brought to keep warm. Adequate amount of clothing but could have used a shell for wind protection.

To cook: I used a homemade alcohol stove (a fancy feast cat food can with notches cut into it), aluminum foil wind screen, and a 2 cup stainless steel pot.  The stove burns denatured alcohol at a rate of less than 1 oz per day (to boil 2 cups of water).



To sleep: I used my old mummy 20-deg sleeping bag, Thermarest Prolite 4 regular, and a 5x7 space blanket. It was just enough to keep me warm. I counted on not having rain but I had the space blanket and some string in case I had to rig something up

To eat: Breakfast was typically just snacks/energy bars. Lunch was normally peanut butter and tortillas and some energy bars/snacks. Dinner consisted of either soup, couscous, or instant Idaho potatoes. The couscous wasn’t very appetizing on the trail. It is simply too bland. I should learn some better recipes because the food got dull and unappetizing. Luckily, I ran into a rafting party on Day 4 whom fed me three fresh meals.

Some of the food I brought before I consolidated and re-packaged it

Illegal Gear: Ok… I brought an mp3 player w/ voice recorder along with me. I know hardcore backpacking enthusiasts would detest having an mp3 player in the wild, but it turned out to be a saving grace. I used the mp3 player to record messages while hiking or during blustery nights when it was too cold to write. Also, while waiting for 45 hours for a boat to take me across the river I listened to audio sermons and books. Additionally, darkness came at around 6pm so when reading got old; I turned on the mp3 player. I know this is “cheating” but I hardly felt like it ruined the wilderness experience.

NEXT POST will show the hike pictures and videos.

I made it out alive

I just finished a 7 day, 115 mile Grand Canyon backpacking trip.  It was a true adventure, an epic adventure.  It absolutely thrashed my body, but it was awesome.  I will have a big post on it in a week or two with pics and maybe, just maybe I will show some of the videos.  Yea yea yea

The Magical LOOP:

south kaibab
north kaibab
ken patrick
point imperial
nankoweap
colorado river
beamer
escalante
tonto
south kaibab

i like this

This is from the book My Utmost for His Highest by Oswald Chambers
THE SPHERE OF EXALTATION
October 1st.

"Jesus leadeth them up into a high mountain apart by themselves." Mark 9:2

We have all had times on the mount, when we have seen things from God's standpoint and have wanted to stay there; but God will never allow us to stay there. The test of our spiritual life is the power to descend; if we have power to rise only, something is wrong. It is a great thing to be on the mount with God, but a man only gets there in order that afterwards he may get down among the devil-possessed and lift them up. We are not built for the mountains and the dawns and aesthetic affinities, those are for moments of inspiration, that is all. We are built for the valley, for the ordinary stuff we are in, and that is where we have to prove our mettle. Spiritual selfishness always wants repeated moments on the mount. We feel we could talk like angels and live like angels, if only we could stay on the mount. The times of exaltation are exceptional, they have their meaning in our life with God, but we must beware lest our spiritual selfishness wants to make them the only time.

We are apt to think that everything that happens is to be turned into useful teaching, it is to be turned into something better than teaching, viz., into character. The mount is not meant to teach us anything, it is meant to make us something. There is a great snare in asking - What is the use of it? In spiritual matters we can never calculate on that line. The moments on the mountain tops are rare moments, and they are meant for something in God's purpose.

White Mountains & Blue Range Primitive Area

Intro

I took a trip over to the wonderful White Mountains and the Blue Range Primitive Area in eastern AZ a couple weekends ago. This area is incredible. The remoteness, lush vegetation, mountain streams and lakes, high elevation, diverse wildlife, steep canyons and extensive trail network make it one of the best patches of forest I have ever experienced. Late September or early October is the best time to visit because the leaves are just starting to change color and the elk are in rut. I could hardly sleep the first night because the elk were bugling (squealing and grunting) so loudly. I would probably visit here every weekend if it wasn’t a 5-6 hour drive. But the fact that it is so difficult to get to keeps it pristine, empty, and largely undiscovered.

Highlight of Trip: Mount Baldy Loop Run

The highlight of the trip was my run to the top of Mount Baldy, Arizona’s second highest peak (~11,400 ft). There are two paths approximately 7 miles each to the pseudo summit (b/c the peak is on Apache land technically you are not allowed on top): The West Baldy Trail (#94) and the East Baldy Trail (#95). There is a connector trail (#96) about 3.5 miles long that ties both these trails together creating a ~18 mile loop entirely above 9,000 feet. Naturally, I wanted to do the loop because going up and back down the same trail is just not fun. This is the way I went: Sheep’s Crossing Parking Lot 94 Actual summit 95 96 94 Parking Lot

I wasn’t feeling too good early in the run. I was tired because the bugling elk kept me up all night and I had already wiped out after I tripped over my own feet. I wanted to quit and turn back after about 25 minutes but then I heard some rustling in the brush and a monstrosity of an elk bolted out of the brush 30 yards from me. What a large, stunning creature. I stood there for a minute; the elk had long since disappeared, and I just started laughing: That’s why I come up here. I was too focused on my own discomfort (and the 18 miles) to really soak in the scenery around me. From this point forward everything just clicked: I started picking up the pace a little, the rocks and roots on the trail seemed to disappear, I saw more elk, turkeys and deer, and I was enjoying every moment.

random airplane wreakage @ 11,000 feet

jogging over the Little Colorado River

Another Good Run

The day after my long Mount Baldy run, I did a spectacular out and back stroll on the Foote Creek Trail (#76) in the Blue Range Primitive Area near Hannagan Meadow. This trail was relatively flat and soft which my body required after the difficult 18 miler. The trails here remind me of the ones back home in PA because they are so soft, rolling, wet, and shaded verses hard packed, dry, and exposed where I currently live. I enjoyed this trail so much that I ended up going twice as far as I wanted: 90 minutes instead of an easy 45 or 50.

Escudilla

After my morning jog in the Blue Range, I headed up to Arizona’s 3rd highest peak Escudilla. It is a pretty simple 3 mile hike to the top. This is a national recreation trail so it is pretty popular and very scenic. The first mile or is thick with Aspens trees while the 2nd and 3rd miles are a cross between aspens, spruce and open meadows.

firetower at the summit

BILLY MILLS

If you don't know who Billy Mills is check out the video and make sure the volume is up.

Another longer video with Billy talking about his Tokyo win. Note that smile of his.


I had the honor to hear him speak last night. It was awesome. The jovial 71 year old emphasized that "the choices we make in life choreograph our destiny." He went on to talk about how he never drank alcohol or used drugs. One other interesting tidbit from his talk: during his summers in high school, Billy and a friend worked for a Nebraskan farmer. The farmer had no space in his house for the boys to sleep. So they had to sleep in their choice of 12 old, wrecked cars next to the house and bathe in the stream. He went on to win the South Dakota cross country state championship that year.

Here is picture of Mr. Mills and that beaming smile of his signing a poster for me

jerome run 2009

I had fun running my second Jerome Hill Climb.

The runners are happy, encouraging, and easily approachable.

I like this little town a lot. However, it has become too busy with tourists.

I went into a store after the race to buy some souvenirs for my mom. One guy yelled, this guy won the race today. So the lady at the store gave me a 5 percent discount. She said I should get free meals and hotel rooms and all this stuff because I won. I agreed wholeheartedly.

Another fun racing experience. Yea yea yea.

labor day special p2

Sign Holders

I have recently noticed an explosion in the number of people who get paid to stand on the side of a busy road and hold signs advertising for Subway, Home Depot, or some going out of business sale. How boring must that job be? Well, last weekend I randomly asked two different sign holders about the job.

Sign Holder comments in bold
My mental comments in italics


Sign Holder 1: Male, mid 30’s, scruffy looking (maybe homeless)

I get paid 7 $/hr for a 5 hour shift.
I can understand minimum wage salary but why the 5 hour shift? Maybe because A) the job is so mundane, so mind numbing that no human could make it a full 8 hours or B) it is economically feasible to only pay the sign holder during peak traffic hours.

I just hang out here and check out the girls.
What girls? You stand on the side of a 4 lane highway, cars pass by going 60 miles per hour so you can’t see the passengers, and you are in Chino Valley. It’s not like you are setup next to a Victoria Secret.

It can get boring sometimes but at least I can make some money. I can’t find any other work.
He’s right. At least the guy is trying to earn his money. It would be very tempting to beg or shoplift or rob someone’s home.

Sign Holder 2: Female, unemployed, 30’s, not homeless

No. I don’t get any bathroom breaks.
What? That’s illegal, isn’t it?

I get one 15 min break during my 5 hour shift.
Ok…So you do get a bathroom break.

I am paid 35 bucks a day under the table so it’s good.
That’s a decent deal but how does it work? You are working for a business so shouldn’t you pay taxes. It’s not like you are watching you neighbors dog for a week while they are on vacation. A zillion cars drive by you everyday. You can’t really hide from Uncle Sam.

It’s a really good job.
Huh? You don’t seem at all discouraged about your situation. Good for you.

I’m unemployed. There are a lot of fast food jobs in the valley. That’s where I’m hoping to get a more permanent job.
I am lucky to have a good job.